The Millets Mama: How chef Anahita Dhondy is making millets cool
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Heena Khandelwal
Chef Anahita Dhondy, formerly of SodaBottleOpenerWala, is pivoting her culinary focus toward promoting millets as a staple superfood. Through creative recipes like ragi tacos, she aims to modernize traditional grains for contemporary palates.
The Culinary Evolution of Anahita Dhondy
Chef Anahita Dhondy has long been a prominent figure in the Indian culinary landscape, primarily recognized for her deep-rooted association with Parsi cuisine. Her journey began in earnest with the 2013 launch of SodaBottleOpenerWala (SBOW), where she served as the founding chef, bringing the nostalgia of Irani cafes to a modern audience. After a successful tenure that concluded in 2021, she cemented her legacy with her memoir, The Parsi Kitchen, which documented family recipes like fried boomla and ravo. However, her recent pivot toward millet-based gastronomy represents a significant shift in her professional trajectory.
Embracing the Millet Movement
While Dhondy is historically known for preserving traditional Parsi flavors, her transition to working with millets is not a sudden whim but a long-term evolution. Her introduction to these ancient grains occurred over a decade ago, guided by Pallavi Upadhyaya of the organization Millets for Health. This foundational education—covering the nuances of cleaning, soaking, and the versatile applications of millets as both flour and whole grain—has provided Dhondy with the technical expertise to experiment with ingredients that were once relegated to the periphery of urban diets.
Modernizing Ancient Grains
Dhondy is currently challenging the perception that millets are difficult to incorporate into daily meals. By conceptualizing dishes such as ragi (finger millet) tacos with mushroom fillings, she is successfully bridging the gap between traditional agricultural heritage and contemporary food trends. This approach is vital for the mainstream adoption of millets, as it moves the conversation beyond mere nutritional value and into the realm of flavor and convenience, making these climate-resilient crops appealing to a younger, urban demographic.
The Nutritional and Cultural Context
Millets are increasingly recognized for their high fiber content, gluten-free nature, and low glycemic index, making them a cornerstone of healthy eating. By leveraging her reputation as a respected chef, Dhondy is helping to de-stigmatize these grains, which were once unfairly labeled as 'poor man's food.' Her advocacy serves as a critical link in the food system, connecting the farming community that grows these climate-resilient crops with the urban consumer seeking healthier alternatives to polished rice and wheat.
Future Trends in Culinary Advocacy
As the global food industry shifts toward sustainable and regenerative agriculture, chefs like Dhondy are becoming essential influencers. Her transition from a specialized cuisine to a broader, mission-driven focus suggests a future where culinary professionals prioritize ingredient integrity and health-conscious innovation. Her work indicates that the future of Indian gastronomy will likely be defined by a fusion of ancestral wisdom—such as the use of millets—with global techniques that cater to modern, health-conscious lifestyles.