Chef At Home: Meet Niyati Rao, the hand behind Ekaa and Bombay Daak
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Heena Khandelwal
Mumbai's culinary scene is evolving as chefs Niyati Rao and Karan Shah launch new ventures rooted in personal heritage. These restaurants, Ekaa and Makaan, reflect a growing trend of chefs blending professional expertise with intimate, home-inspired narratives.
The New Wave of Personal Gastronomy in Mumbai
Mumbai’s vibrant culinary landscape is undergoing a transformation led by a new generation of restaurateurs who are blurring the lines between personal identity and professional craft. Recent developments highlight two distinct yet parallel journeys: Chef Niyati Rao, the force behind Ekaa and Bombay Daak, and Karan Shah, who has launched his new Gujarati venture, Makaan. Both stories underscore a shift toward authenticity, where the restaurant environment serves as an extension of the chef's own home and history.
Niyati Rao: The Synthesis of Science and Art
Chef Niyati Rao’s journey is deeply rooted in a multifaceted upbringing. Growing up in Madh Island with a father who was a music composer and a mother who was a scientist with the Food and Drug Administration, Rao’s approach to cuisine is naturally experimental. Her professional partnership with her husband, Sagar Neve, has birthed a portfolio of diverse concepts including Ekaa, Bombay Daak, KMC, and Ringo. This creative duo represents the modern Mumbai entrepreneur: agile, diverse, and deeply connected to their daily routines, which include early morning walks at Shivaji Park and a home life shared with their four cats.
Karan Shah: Honoring Heritage at Makaan
In contrast, Karan Shah’s transition from the legacy of Swati Snacks to his own venture, Makaan, highlights the importance of institutional knowledge. Having spent eight years learning the ropes alongside his aunt, Asha Jhaveri, Shah’s mission with Makaan was not merely to open another eatery but to recreate the warmth of his childhood home in Colaba. By focusing on Gujarati snacking, he bridges the gap between traditional comfort food and contemporary dining environments.
Architectural Storytelling in Dining
Both restaurateurs utilize physical space to communicate their vision. Makaan, located in Juhu, uses subtle design elements like terracotta walls, bandhani lamps, and traditional Laxmi pagla to evoke a sense of home without succumbing to over-the-top traditionalism. Similarly, the personal lives of Rao and Neve, often visible through the lens of their home in Dadar, reflect a lifestyle that informs their hospitality—a blend of high-level professional execution and the comfort of a lived-in space.
Broader Implications for the Indian Food Industry
These ventures signify a broader trend in the Indian hospitality industry: the move away from impersonal corporate chains toward founder-led, narrative-driven restaurants. Chefs are increasingly curating menus that act as memoirs, drawing on family history, cultural background, and personal travels. This shift resonates with the modern Indian consumer, who seeks not just sustenance, but a story that feels authentic and curated.
Future Trends and Market Sustainability
Looking ahead, the success of these establishments suggests that the future of fine and casual dining in cities like Mumbai lies in niche, identity-focused concepts. As the market becomes more saturated, the competitive edge shifts toward those who can maintain a consistent, personal connection with their patrons. By weaving their own narratives into the fabric of their restaurants, chefs like Rao and Shah are setting a new standard for what it means to be a modern restaurateur in India.